Today’s review will be on a recently awarded 1-Michelin-star restaurant, Restaurant Sühring. I gotta say that I’ve been here before on December 2016 with my mate and we were disappointed by the food, so I decided not to write the review on Restaurant Suhring back then; few were great but most of the meal was really bad and meh. They did serve us frozen scallops. You can tell from the rubbery and milky texture right away. But the pasta dish, bread & coldcut service and desserts were excellent I have to say.
The place is located in Soi Yen Akat 3. Thus it is very hard to visit the restaurant by public transport. Taking taxi/Uber is highly recommended since Restaurant Suhring doesn’t have many parking lots too. The place is a house converted to restaurant. The dining area is separated into 4 dining rooms: main dining room, the kitchen, the living room and the glasshouse. The first visit I was sitting in the kitchen or more like at the counter bar like L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. I have to admit that this place is really gorgeous and perfect to bring your partner for a romantic dinner. On a service side, all staffs were friendly and attentive. Restaurant Suhring offers 4 tasting menu options which are 8-course classic menu, 12-course classic menu, 8-course innovative menu and 12-course innovative menu. The kitchen and the living room only serve 12-course experience only.
In this occasion, it was a domaine Dhondt-Grellet champagne dinner hosted by FarmerFizz by Aplus wine cellar such that an exclusive 15-course innovative menu was served and paired with award winning bubbles from Dhondt-Grellet. I will not go through every dishes in details in this review since I didn’t jot down the details of each dish and the given menu was written in German. But what I can tell you now is the food is way way way improved from my 2016 visit. Most of the meal tonight were outstanding and delicious; only some were so-so.
Adrien Dhondt, Domaine Dhondt-Grellet producer
To kick off one of the best wine dinner of 2018, series of German finger food were served. All bites were enjoyable and fun to eat. The highlights were Hackerle tartlet and Curry 36. Hackerle tartlet is basically a mackerel mini tart topped with cucumber espuma. Mackerel was creamy, salty and sweet. Cucumber cream just cut through those richness. Curry 36 is a Berlin street food of German sausage, curry powder and the crackling. Sausage is well made and curry powder gave this dish a curry kick. The crackling just made this bite more enjoyable. NV Les Terres Fines, 1er Cru, blanc de blancs, extra brut was chosen to pair with snacks. Crisp, mineral, precise and clean on palate with lively fruit note which went along with the small bites nicely.
First entrée was frankfurter grüne soße, geräucherter aal and N25 caviar. Frankfurter grüne soße is a cold and uncooked herbal sauce and geräucherter aal is an eel in English. Quite a light starter to begin the meal. The herbal sauce was fresh, light and earthy which paired nicely with the eel. The eel jus was deep in flavour which brought the whole things together. Caviar just made it even better. 2012 Le Bateau’ Cramant Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Extra Brut was served to accompany this dish. Very energetic and refined champagne. Wave after wave of layers of aroma. So complex and charming note with long and smooth finish.
Next was Brotzeit to share with your fellow diners served with NV Rosé, brut. Cold Cuts & bread Service here is always impressed me. This time it was salami, cured ocean trout, bread and flavoured butter. Dhondt-Grellet rosé went with the cold cuts gorgeously. Red berries, a bit of brioche and biscuit, and red apple note. Clean, crisp and quite mineral on palate. Really easy to drink rosé champagne. The rosé really complimented the cold cuts. Such a good pairing I’d to say.
Next was flusskrebssalat & zitronenessig paired with NV Prestige du Moulin, Grand cru, brut. Ok, I have no idea what is this dish actually is because I was a bit drunk and could not catch the waiter explanation. It was like crayfish salad or so. The dish tasted good but not so memorable whilst the wine was fantastic. Prestige du Moulin was elegant, fine and matured champagne with fine bubbles, fresh note of green apple, brioche and toasted bread, good acidity, and mid finish.
Flusskrebssalat & Zitronenessig
Codfish, lentils and “Himmel & Erde” was served accordingly along with 2011 Vieilles Vignes sélection. Need no mention about the VVS, it is one of my favourite champagnes. A bit oxidized, good mineral, fine bubbles with layers of aroma and long finish. Really hard to keep my hand off this bottle. For the food, cod was fresh and cooked perfectly; tender but still remained its firmness. Lentils sauce was quite elegant and rich which paired beautifully with te cod. Himmel & Erde was served in style. Instead of a big messy plate full with mashed, apple sauce and sausage, it came in a tiny bite. Black sausage sat on a pillow of crispy potato nest and topped with apple disk. What a traditional twist it was!
Codfish & Lentils
The last savoury dish was Zwiebelrostbraten & winter black truffle and Spaetzle. I did not quite understand the idea of serving roast beef with creamy pasta since both dishes were heavy. At least the wine to paired with both dishes was fresh and light such that it can cut through the richness of both plates. Surely a life saver. Zwiebelrostbraten was basically a roast beef though this word is Austrian. Hahaha Let the joke aside, this dish might be the least interesting of the night. Seemed Suhring brothers’ weakness is how to cook the red game. Last time, I ordered a lamb dish and it was tasteless and not appetite. Beef was roasted perfectly medium-rare but it didn’t give me a wow impression given by 1-Michelin-star restaurant level. Confited onion and black truffle did boast up the beef but still not good enough to put a smile on my face. Spaetzle or German handed-cut pasta served with crispy onion in a mountain cheese sauce was marvellous as always. The last wine was Claire Naudin 2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru les Damodes magnum. The wine was definitely too young but shows its cellaring potential. Lots of red berries, cherry, sweet spice but tarness still presents on the palate. It unquestionably is a sleeping beauty!!
Zwiebelrostbraten & winter black truffle
Before commencing the finale, pre-dessert of “our gin & tonic” was placed down. A classic combination of Hendrick’s gin with cucumber. Light, refreshing and yummm. The final dish to end the night was “Yogurette” or strawberry yogurt. Another classic combination of yogurt and strawberry. After a heavy meal and a lot of champagnes, this dessert just did the job perfectly. So fresh, light and delicious!
Our Gin & Tonic
To sum up, Restaurant Sühring is now truly deserved its star. Food and service are up to 1* Michelin standard. Staffs, like I mentioned before, are attentive and friendly. I should give this beautiful restaurant more visits this year and hope it will retain the star in the next coming year!
10, Yen Akat Soi 3,